Isle Royale Magic: Backpacking Like Never Before

How to Plan a Trip to Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale National Park, located on a secluded island in Lake Superior, is a remote park that offers a unique adventure for those willing to plan ahead. Start your planning at least 1-2 months in advance, especially since the park is only accessible by boat or seaplane.

Popular options include the Ranger III from Houghton, MI, the Isle Royale Queen IV from Copper Harbor, MI, and the Voyageur II or Seahunter III from Grand Portage, MN. For quicker access, consider flights with Isle Royale Seaplanes, which operate from Houghton to Rock Harbor and Windigo. The busy season runs from late June through August, so booking early is crucial.

Once you’ve sorted your transportation, decide how long you’d like to stay. A weekend trip could mean 2 days/1 night, while a longer visit of 4-5 days allows for deeper exploration. If you’re short on time, day trips are an option, but they limit your experience.

For accommodations, choose between camping, backpacking, or staying at guest lodges on the east side of the island near Rock Harbor. To truly immerse yourself in the wilderness, I recommend hiking a few miles into the backcountry—it’s the best way to experience the beauty of this remote park.

When it comes to camping, you don’t need to reserve permits or campsites ahead of time. Simply obtain your permit upon arrival at the visitor center, where you’ll register with a park ranger and outline your itinerary. The flexibility to change your plans is a bonus—just update the ranger if you decide to camp elsewhere.

Be prepared for unpredictable weather, including rainstorms, by packing layers and checking the forecast. During my visit in late June, the days were warm, but nights turned chilly. Don’t forget bug spray and head nets for mosquitos, though you’ll be relieved to know there are no ticks on the island. For more tips, check out my gear list, designed to keep your pack light and your trip enjoyable.

Essential Gear for Backpacking Isle Royale National Park

When preparing for backpacking in Isle Royale National Park, keeping your backpack weight light is key to an enjoyable trip. My base weight (excluding food, water, and worn clothes) was around 12-13 pounds, which made hiking much easier.

If you’re not carrying 4 pounds of camera gear like I did, you can easily reduce your pack to about 8 pounds. For photographers, I recommend bringing just one lens—I chose my wide-angle lens for the weekend and didn’t regret it. The trick is to think critically about what you truly need to survive and thrive on the trail.

Camping Gear

• Tent: 37 oz
• Sleeping Bag/Quilt: 17.5 oz
• Main Sleeping Pad: 7.7 oz
• Base Sleeping Pad: 3 oz
• Pillow: 2.8 oz
• Stove: 14 oz (shared with my sister)
• Meals: Pre-planned and lightweight
• Sleep Socks: 2.4 oz
• Sleep Leggings: 5 oz

Hiking Gear

• Backpack: 13.7 oz
• Pack Cover: 4 oz
• Waterproof Bag Liner: 1 oz
• Hiking Shoes: Sturdy and broken-in
• Lightweight Fleece: 7 oz
• Rain Jacket: 4.5 oz
• T-Shirt, Socks, Base Layer, Leggings, Sports Bra: Essentials for layering
• Head Net: 1 oz (a lifesaver for mosquitos)
• Beanie: 3.4 oz
• Gloves: 1 oz
• Water Filter: 3 oz
• Spoon: 0.5 oz
• Water Bottles: Lightweight and durable
• Headlamp: 4 oz
• Hat: For sun protection

Hygiene Kit

• Trowel: 0.6 oz
• Bug Spray: Essential for the island
• Hairbrush, Toothbrush, Toothpaste: Basic necessities
• Glasses, Chapstick, Wipes, Sunscreen: For comfort and protection
• Mini Scissors, Mini Tweezers: Handy for small tasks

Optional Items

• Camera Clip: 3.04 oz
• Camera: 20.5 oz
• Film Camera: 14 oz
• Portable Battery: 6.9 oz
• Camera Cover: 4 oz
• Film: 0.72 oz
• Plastic Baggy Wallet: 1 oz
• National Park Passport: 5.6 oz
• Phone: 7.3 oz
• Phone Charging Cord: 8 g

My Backpacking Adventure on Isle Royale

Starting the Journey

We chose to depart from Grand Portage, MN, as the boat leaves early Saturday morning and arrives at Windigo by 10:30 am, giving us plenty of time to hike. Unlike the longer trips from Michigan, this schedule allowed us to maximize our weekend on the island.

After arriving late Friday night, we camped near the boat dock, where the moon glowed orange on the horizon, and the milky way lit up the crisp, clear, and quiet summer night. By sunrise, we were greeted with a stunning view of a small boat harbor on Lake Superior.

Exploring the Island

After a quick breakfast of oatmeal cooked on our JetBoil MiniMo, we boarded the Sea Hunter III (the Voyageur II was sold out) for a 1.5-hour boat ride to Isle Royale. At the Visitor Center, we obtained our backpacking permits and learned about the park from the park rangers. We decided to hike the 4.3-mile trail to Huginnin Cove, part of a 10.5-mile loop.

The trail was narrow but well-kept, with minimal elevation change and a few hills. Along the way, we spotted moose—one in the brush and another in a marsh. With over 2,000 moose on the island, it’s common to see them, but we kept our distance, especially from a mama moose with her calves.

Camping at Huginnin Cove

The campsites at Huginnin Cove were first come, first serve, and we chose one with a private shore. The water was clear and turquoise, perfect for filtering with our water filter. We set up our tent, cooked Mountain House freeze-dried food for lunch, and enjoyed the sun on the rocks.

Later, we hiked the East Huginnin Cove trail, a 3.3-mile stretch with breathtaking views of Lake Superior and the buttes of Canada. The teal gradient of the water was unforgettable.

A Close Encounter with Wildlife

During our hike, we heard footsteps in the denser forest near a bog. To our surprise, it was a black wolf, one of only 14 on the island. My heart raced as we quietly retreated, ensuring we didn’t disturb it. We later reported the wolf-sighting to a Park Ranger, as black wolves are rare and of interest to research.

Reflections and Farewell

The silence of the wilderness was profound, broken only by our footsteps and the occasional sounds of creatures in the forest. That evening, we watched the sunset at 10 pm ET, thanks to the summer solstice, and fell asleep under the stars.

The next morning, a beaver joined us for breakfast before we packed up and hiked back to Windigo. Before boarding our 12:30 pm boat, we returned our backpacking permit and shared our wolf-sighting story with an older gentleman who had visited the island for 10 years.

Isle Royale’s solitude, nature, and beauty left us fulfilled. Despite being one of the least visited National Parks, its charm is undeniable. I know I’ll return to this haven away from the chaos of everyday life.